Rifugio 7° Alpini in the Dolomites with a detour to Bus del Buson
🗺️ Overview
- Starting Point: Case Bortot, Belluno (600 m)
- Arrival: Rifugio Settimo Alpini (1,502 m)
- Duration: About 3-4 hours one way
- Elevation Gain: Around 1,100 m
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Technical Difficulty: Low
The Journey Begins
The hike starts at Case Bortot (600 m), not far from Belluno. Right at the parking area, there is a former refuge that has been surprisingly transformed into a gourmet restaurant. We tried their "strudel destrutturato," which translates to "unbuilt strudel"—essentially, all the components of a strudel carefully arranged on a plate in a refined presentation.
But let’s get back to the hike! The parking area is not very large and, being so close to Belluno, it fills up quickly—so arriving early is recommended. From the parking lot, the hike begins on a wide gravel road through the forest, which gradually narrows into a mountain trail. About 10-15 minutes into the hike, you reach a junction leading to Bus del Buson.
A Detour Worth Considering: Bus del Buson
While this hike focuses on reaching Rifugio Settimo Alpini, Bus del Buson deserves a mention. The gorge is well worth a visit, though probably on a separate day, as the hike to the refuge is already quite demanding. It is the remains of a narrow gorge where there was once a torrent. The gorge features stratified rock formations that make you feel on another world. To explore the gorge, you descend about 100 meters on a steep trail for approximately 30 minutes. Walking through the gorge takes some time, and the climb back up will add another 30 minutes. In total, it makes for a 1.5-hour short hike.
Into the Forest
Returning to the main hike, to reach Rifugio Settimo Alpini, you must continue straight at the junction and then take a left at a bifurcation. At this point, the path transforms into a true mountain trail. It winds through a serene forest, with a gentle incline leading up and then down. After about 1.5 hours of hiking, you find yourself at roughly the same altitude as the parking area.
At some point, you reach an area with cadini, the local term for rocky pools formed by mountain torrents. A small bridge allows you to cross to the other side of the stream. From here, the real climb begins.
The Final Ascent: Monte Calvario
The final ascent is known as Monte Calvario—named after the hill where Jesus carried the cross, which is quite telling of how it feels! After 1.5 hours of relatively gentle hiking, this sudden steep climb can be a shock to the legs.
The hut remains hidden for most of the climb as you move through the forest. Only when you reach the edge of the tree line does the impressive sight of Rifugio Settimo Alpini reveal itself, with its jagged rock peaks towering behind it. At this point, you are just 15 minutes away from your destination.
At the Hut
Rifugio Settimo Alpini is a classic Dolomites refuge, offering hearty goulash, refreshing beer, and delicious local desserts. It holds special memories from my childhood adventures. I once stayed here overnight with my dad before continuing the next day on the Schiara via ferrata, which leads to the summit and passes Gusela del Vescova, a striking rock spire easily recognizable even from a distance. In fact, it can be seen all the way from my parents' chalet in Nevegal.
The Return Journey
The way back follows the same path, making for a long but straightforward descent. This time, however, we encountered some unexpected drama—a sudden storm. Just 20 minutes from the end, the rain started. We put on our rain gear, but it quickly intensified, and for the last 10 minutes, we decided to run. The downpour was so intense that we ended up with pools of water in our boots!
The upside of such an experience? Once back home, there’s nothing quite like drying off by the fire, reminiscing about a day well spent in the mountains.
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