A Classic Dolomites Hike: The Tour of Pelmo

🗺️ Overview

  • Starting Point: Passo Staulanza, 1,766 meters
  • Highest Point: Forcella d'Arcia, 2,481 meters
  • End Point: Passo Staulanza
  • Duration: Approximately 8 hours (including breaks)
  • Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
  • Technical difficulty: Moderate (some exposed sections)

During our vacation in Nevegal, we decided to take on a longer hike than usual and chose the Tour of Pelmo, one of the classic routes in the Dolomites. Mount Pelmo (3,168 m) stands out with its relatively flat summit, differing from the jagged peaks typical of the Dolomites. Our goal wasn’t to climb to the summit but rather to complete the full circuit around the mountain.

The typical starting point is Passo Staulanza, situated at 1,766 meters above sea level in the Zoldo Valley. The circuit can be done in either direction since well, it is a loop! We opted to go clockwise starting on the right, which is the most common choice as it allows you to reach the highest point near the beginning rather than at the end of the tour.

Ascent to Forcella d’Arcia

The initial section of the trail led us through a forest of dwarf pines, which gradually gave way to a vast scree. As we gained elevation, the landscape became more rugged and barren. The final climb to Forcella d’Arcia, the highest point of our hike at 2,481 meters, offers two possible paths: one on the left and a larger, more official one on the right. We took the right-hand route, which appeared shorter, though the other might have been easier.

Reaching the forcella took us about three hours, and despite it being August, the cold at the top was intense. This first section of the hike, while long, posed no particular technical challenges— the most techical part was still ahead.

The Ledges

From Forcella d’Arcia, we descended steeply over rocky terrain. Eventually, the trail leveled out and led us onto a series of narrow ledges equipped with ropes for support. Lucia wasn't thrilled about this part—I admit, I hadn’t warned her in advance, bad bad hausband—but in the end, it wasn’t too difficult to navigate. That said, you do need a bit of a head for heights. At this stage, we were on the far side of Pelmo relative to our starting point.

Reaching Rifugio Venezia

After negotiating the ledges, the trail rounded a corner, revealing Rifugio Venezia (1,947 m) below us. From this point onward, the route was no longer technical. We descended through another pine forest and reached the rifugio about five hours after leaving Passo Staulanza. Roughly 15-20 minutes before arriving, we passed a junction leading to the summit path, but this time we were more interested in taking the path to a well-earned beer.

The Return Journey

After a half-hour break at the rifugio, we set off again. The return route began with a gentle descent along a road, followed by a final 100-meter climb before a long, gradual descent through the pine forest, leading us back to Passo Staulanza. This final stretch took about two hours, and in total, including breaks, our hike lasted almost eight hours.

Conclusion

The Tour of Pelmo is a truly rewarding hike, offering a mix of breathtaking views, varied terrain, and some challenges along the way. While the technical section after Forcella d’Arcia requires a bit of confidence with heights, the rest of the hike is accessible to experienced hikers. If you're looking for a long but unforgettable day in the Dolomites, this tour is a must-do!

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